In 90% of the cases I’ve seen, the buyer is saddled with a color selection emulating the talents of the guy that painted the famous ‘Velvet Elvis’ and ‘Bullfighter’ paintings. Scale Messerschmitts, Fokkers, Stearmans etc. aren’t even close to full-scale counterparts. We are stuck with these flying eyesores. It’s a shame that manufacturers can’t see that there is a definite need for ARC (almost ready to cover) versions of their products. Of course, one can strip off the stock covering and redo with fresh covering. Personally, I can’t (and won’t) show up at the field with a model that is a clone of the one five other guys are flying. Over the last ten years I’ve also fallen into the rut of the ARF but, I’ve finally come to my senses and decided to get ‘back to basics’.
          If you find this concept even somewhat interesting, read on. If not, stop right here and continue flying your ‘Chinese Clones’.

Step One

            Building from a kit, plans or from ones own design requires a bit more thought and attention to detail as well as emphasis to quality of workmanship. A few basic tools are also required. Here’s a partial list:

X-Acto knives X-Acto razor saw Assortment of pliers Screwdrivers Allen wrenches Sand paper (80 – 320 grit) Drill and bit assortment (1/32” – ¼”) Clamps (easy to make from reversed clothespins)

Modelers plane Modelers pins (‘T’ pins are great) 2 foot straight edge Rulers and squares Calculator (yes, some simple math may be involved) Hobby jig saw i.e. Dremel (if scratch building) Wax paper CA glue

          As your building experience and skills evolve, you’ll undoubtedly add to your building tool inventory. Of course, a good place to work is mandatory. When I was about 23 years old I lived in a 14’ x 14’ studio apartment where I designed and built a 12 foot sailplane. In those days I had to make do with what little I had. Anyway, a good workspace is important. You have to have a surface that is sufficient to assemble and stick together all of the parts. Spending big bucks on a balsa cored building board isn’t necessary. Go to Home Depot and buy a 2 x 4 sheet of porous ceiling tile (about $3). Cut it into two 1 x 4 foot pieces. Save one for later when the other wears out. I’ve used the same 1 x 4 panel for over three years now. Parts can be pinned to it very easily. Now you are ready to start.
             You also need a project. Your choice should depend on you skill level. Lets assume you are a beginner. Start with a kit. There are many great kits out there suitable for any skill level. Don’t let your heart overrule your head. I still remember the first kit I built. My dad bought me a Berkely Stinson and a Cox .049. It was a total embarrassment. Everything possible was wrong with that plane. In my defense, I had no one to mentor me through that project except for my trusty ‘American Modeler’ magazine. My next kits were progressively much better, having learned from my mistakes.
            Any kit from Carl Goldberg, Sig Manufacturing and Great Planes are fine. Top Flite makes nice scale kits but are geared more for the advanced to expert builder. Most of the Great Planes kits are fine except for a few that are somewhat fragile and flimsy. This, I guess, is due to a cost saving strategy. Stevens Aeromodel has some great little electric powered kits that are well suited for the beginner. They feature laser cut interlocking parts and are very well engineered.

Step Two

            Once you have your kit, study the plans and the building manual. All processes will be laid out in a step-by-step format. Read the plans and manual until you understand the kit inside out. Reading plans, is in most cases, a learned skill. It requires that you transform a two-dimensional drawing into a three dimensional image in your head. Don’t get discouraged. Like I said, it’s a learned skill. I know some very smart guys that have a hard time with this process. I have a Proctor Fokker DRI on the bench right now that I’ve been building for 20 years and I still see things I missed. Some designers incorporate additional isometric views on the plans to better illuminate any ambiguity.
            If needed, check and label all parts with a ball point pen or soft pencil. Lay the plans on the building board, emphasizing the part you wish to build. Start with the tail pieces first to get the idea of how things go together. Tape the plans to the board with tape. Masking/painters tape works best. Tape a piece of waxed paper over the plans. This will insure that the parts won’t stick to the plans. A quick note about glues. Don’t use Elmer’s or any kind of white furniture glue on your model except in areas where high strength laminations are required. We aren’t building a house or a sailboat. Weight reduction is important. Some of the newer polyurethane glues can be used but be careful as it is also heavy and will expand during curing. Experiment on scrap stock first. Stick with the CA glues as it is strong, light and can be debonded (use debonder) should you make a mistake.
            Now for the finale. Pre-fit all parts before gluing. Make sure that all parts are square to each other (if required). Use only enough glue to do the job. Glue is not a structural material. Its sole duty is to bond two or more pieces to each other. Build the tail, fuselage and wings in that order (easiest to the hardest). Check your work as you go. It doesn’t hurt to use your straight edge, ruler and squares to check alignment.
            Good luck. Next Installment will be ‘Part II, Finishing’